The final show on Japan Day was, of course, Rei Kawakubo’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection for Comme des Garçons. Entitled Uncertain Future, the show confronted the turbulence of our times whilst conveying a sense of optimism. The show opened with a striking trio of white, rigid sculptural pieces made from a resin-coated fabric or perhaps fiberglass. The garments ridges and monumental proportions lent them a sense of gravity and grandeur.
With each model’s slow, deliberate walk, the designs appeared more as statuesque forms than clothing; a poignant commentary on the potential for transformation and endurance in the face of adversity. As the show progressed, these rigid shapes gave way to softer, quilted garments—expanding into grander, more fluid silhouettes. Oversized sleeves and unused armholes made the pieces feel enveloping and almost protective, offering a contrast between structure and comfort.
The textiles featured a fusion of silk jacquards and intricate patterns, evoking cultural references from Asia and Africa, while the designs themselves became an exploration of industrial metal mesh and down-like insulation to delicate photo-printed fabrics. These layers created an intense complexity and depth, both visually and conceptually. In one particularly poignant moment underscoring Kawakubo’s engagement with contemporary social issues, a fleeting message —“Protect Our…”—slipped out as the model moved down the runway, before quickly disappearing into the folds of the garment.
Kawakubo’s focus on transparency and airiness in the face of uncertainty was evident not just in the designs but also in the show’s atmosphere. The music, The Wind in High Places by John Luther Adams, set a contemplative tone, while the lighting by Thierry Dreyfus allowed the garments to almost float in the space, further emphasizing the lightness and potential for transformation. Collaborations with Phileo and Salomon further hinted at a mix of comfort and innovation.
As the show came to a close, a sense of redemption and renewal grew stronger as the larger-than-life garments became symbols of protection and potential.
images courtesy of Comme Des Garçons