Anthony Vaccarello skipped the after-dark theatrics this season. For Summer 2026, Saint Laurent stepped into the light — literally. No velvet shadows, no disco haze. Just dry, clear afternoon sun. A reset. A refusal of spectacle.
The show’s centrepiece — clinamen, a quiet installation by Céleste Boursier-Mougenot — featured porcelain bowls drifting in a vibrant blue circular pool, chiming softly as they touched, creating a meditative energy, a fitting metaphor for the collection: calm, subtle, beautifully unscripted.
The clothes moved with the same quiet confidence. Silk faille shorts — sharp, sculpted, just above the knee — opened the show. A nod to Yves, but without leaning on nostalgia. Cinched waists and extended shoulders shaped silhouettes that were tailored, never tight. Sheer nylon tops layered under structured vests. Open silk shirts fluttered over fluid trousers. Everything hovered rather than clung.
The palette — sand, salt, dry moss, pale ochre, pool blue — echoed faded summers. Fabrics were light and responsive, catching the sun without glare. Nothing screamed. Everything breathed.
There’s a quiet tribute at play — to those who once made desire visible, and to Yves himself, who stepped away in 1974, only to return more focused. This collection doesn’t reach for homage. It simply continues the line.
In a season full of noise, Vaccarello offers a sense of stillness. Precision over provocation. No declarations, no spectacle — just clarity, elegance, and the confidence to let it all unfold in the light.
Watch the show below.