While Italy is always a lovely place to begin, fashion month always ends with Paris. It’s the centre of the fashion world; it makes sense really, being the city of love and light, after all. The Fall/Winter 2024 week was a time, throughout the week, it rained, it snowed, it was unseasonably warm and also cold. Ahh Paris in January. The week of fashion brought a whirlwind of excitement. We went to Virginia Paris with Pharrell and Louis Vuitton; we got a cyberpunk alien invasion from Rick Owens and the introduction of Men’s Couture from Kim Jones at Dior. So, without further ado, let’s take a look at the highlights out of Paris for men in Fall Winter 2024.
Hermès
The undisputed leader in self-confident, quiet luxury, Hermès once again showed us how we plan to dress in the coming seasons. Creative force Véronique Nichanian, showed a clear vision of how men should be dressing, bringing the right amount of slick, sporty functionality to every piece, including outerwear and evening wear. Elevating the esteemed luxury houses’ men’s ready-to-wear offering, finely crafted pieces in wearable silhouettes for all occasions, utilized luxurious rich materials, including the finest leathers, beautiful Cashmere and even some superb technical materials. Designed to be layered or worn individually, the collection showcases the men’s fashion ideal for 2024 a bit or. Particular standouts included fuzzy ombré knits in beautiful oranges, greens, purples, yellows, plus a sprinkling of see-through canvas jackets, and finely tailored high-collared shirts. Of course, the bags, the footwear, and jewelry all had a moment, especially a Birkin with saddlery appliqué.
Discover the runway presentation above and our selects below.
Louis Vuitton
With two collections under his belt, Men’s Spring Summer 2024 shown in Paris and Resort shown in Hong Kong, Pharrell Williams presented his massive 80-look collection for Fall Winter 2024/25. Themed around the American Western life, the collection draws inspiration from Black and Native American cowboys whose stories have largely been omitted from the cultural discourse. The collection is a history lesson on origins and classic staples through the modern age of fashion, focusing on classic workwear silhouettes and Western uniform staples, elevating the uniforms of those who built and shaped America into the world of luxury fashion. The craftsmanship was spot on in every highly detailed piece, with only the finest materials used, from the embroidery on the ready-to-wear garments to the premium leather used on accessories including cowboy hats and belt-buckle hatbands, chaps and blanket coats crafted into vaquero jackets and suits. Pharrell brought in artists from the Dakota and Lakota nations to work on creating the accessories and develop the shows scenery and soundtrack. Some bags have the Dakota flower motif, which symbolizes the beautiful roots of nature, embroidered on bags, clothing, and other accessories.
While paying homage to the Western identity of America, Pharrell also went uptown with a shockingly perfect collaboration with iconic workwear turned street brand Timberland. Timberland’s classic six-inch boot took a trip to the Italian factories of Louis Vuitton and got pampered. The pull-on boot is fifteen percent larger than the classic design and has the coveted LV monogram treatment for extra oomf.
Perhaps the most exciting part of the collection was the exquisite and wide array of leather goods. From steamer trunks to wallets, the collection showcased the very high level of craftsman’s shop the LV artisans are capable of, many of which are extremely limited edition. An exotic black crocodile speedy, for example with hand-panted silver motif, western belt straps and sterling silver detailing was a stand out at the re-see with only five ever made.
Watch the whole show above; it’s worth it, and look at our selects below.
Junya Watanabe
There’s a reason Japan’s ultra-cool Junya Watanabe brand has something of a cult following. Not only do they inhabit a realm of creativity that few mortals can obtain, they’re constantly experimenting with fresh design methods way ahead of their time. Taking an entire wardrobe’s worth of clothing and turning it into a singular garment, is akin to a magic act. For Junya Watanabe MAN FW24 the 39 immaculately crafted looks were shown in a mid-renovation hallowed out building cloaked in darkness in central Paris. The collection featured Junya signatures like blazers and pants fused into a single garment and double-breasted coats turned into a denim skirt. Preppy sweaters and cardigans were layered under blazers with trench coat hemlines, accessorizes with silver chains. Seven collaborations were revealed during the show, including 12 denim styles from Levi’s, a single Palace Skateboards hat, pieces from Brooks Brothers, INNERRAUM, Carhartt, Heinrich Dinkelacker and the upcoming New Balance M1906 with a loafer.
Selects below.
Loewe
Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe FW24 offering was an ode to the “internet boyfriend,” manifested by artist Richard Hawkins, who helped to recontextualize his art into clothing. The runway show featured bare chests, undone belts, and a front-row audience of hunks. Stand out looks featured scaled leather coats, colourful polos, suits, bikers, combat boots and skate sneakers. “In a sardonic attempt to impose rather than propose a look,” read the press release, there were many beautifully made pieces. However the collaged confusion of the presentation, overshadowed the true magic of some of the pieces. You’ll surely notice these pieces, the knits, the baggy pants, the suits, all essentials, rolling out into the real world in a more relaxed way.
Take a look at our selects below.
Dior
You need a little history lesson for the FW24 Men’s collection at Dior. Let’s go back to 1965 when photojournalist Colin Jones, who has a background in ballet, was hired to photograph the recently Soviet Union-defected acclaimed male dancer Rudolf Nureyev. The shoot was for 1966’s Time Life magazine as part of a day-in-the-life series. During the day, Colin shot Nureyev’s oft-dance partner, Margot Fonteyn, who was a well-known client of the couture house of Christian Dior. The pictures are famous and capture an important moment in time. As it turns out, Colin Jones is the uncle of Kim Jones, the artistic director of Dior’s menswear line. Wala!
Kim Jones’ FW24 collection was inspired by ballet and featured 40 ready-to-wear looks, with an additional 20 designed as part of the first couture menswear collection for the house. While there are lots of practical items that will find their way into many a closet, from suits to knits and even some see-thru pieces, the couture items show through with their details and intricacies. Including hand-woven robes, one of which took ten people three months to finish.
Watch the full runway presentation above; it is a beautiful show, and see our selections below.
Solid Homme
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For its FW24 collection, Korean fashion brand Solid Homme took us on a Blader Runner-esque journey to the heart of contemporary fashion. The collection was shown inside the Cirque d’Hiver (Winter Circus) in Paris, with a midnight street scene tableau playing out as the models leaned against lamp poles or sat on a bus stop bench. The evershifting tableau was a moody yet effective way to see the collection in action. Drawing inspiration from the paintings of Edward Hopper, the collection was made up of a muted colour palette of deep blues, muted yellows and dark greens. Each outfit gave off the energy of the solo traveller embarking on their journey. The collection also featured Bang & Olufsen headphones, whose intent was to underscore the sense of solitary travel. Like we said below, it’s a very Blade Runner cyberpunk future.
Watch part of the presentation above and see our selects from the collection below.
Rick Owens
For Fall Winter 2024, Rick Owens took us to the far reaches of the meta. The fashion lord of Darkness shows us that we live in a sci-fi-gothic-cyberpunk dystopia, which looks pretty good. The collection, titled “PORTERVILLE,” is an homage to Owens’ Californian hometown, with the runway show taking place inside his Parisian home. The oversized puffer coats, boxy motorcycle jackets, and fully-zipped fuzzy jumpsuit were standout pieces. Coupled with ballooning footwear made in collaboration with London-based designer Straytukay, we were out of this world. While the Rick Owens presentation of the clothes can be jarring at first, once you really see the design and craftsmanship, you understand the art of it all.
LEMAIRE
For the first time, LEMAIRE presented their new FW24 Men’s and Women’s collection in their headquarters in the heart of Paris’ coolest neighbourhood, Le Marais. Walking in a circle before the select and privileged few, the collection affirmed that these items are intended to form an intimate connection between the individual and their clothing. LEMAIRE is quickly becoming the lowkey favourite staple for the IYKYK fashion enthusiast.
Watch the fun presentation above.
Dries Van Noten
To be fully transparent, if one brand holds a lot of real estate in my closet, it is Dries. From their stylish sensibility to functionally cool wearability, Dries comes correct in men’s fashion. The FW24 presentation was no exception. Inspired by vintage military uniforms and adding pastel hues, the collection featured heavy knits, cool pattern prints, and relaxed-fit pants. The collection skews towards confident luxury. While we have much to say about each piece, we recommend you watch the runway presentation above and then glimpse our selections below.
AURALEE
Japanese label AURALEE presented their Men’s and Women’s FW24 collection on the dazzling runways of Paris Fashion Week. s growing older and wiser by the season, showcasing its abilities on Paris Fashion Week runways. Shown inside the opulent Palais de Tokyo, the collection of ultra-modern essentials was presented around the concept of dropping your suit off at the dry cleaners. Each model walked with apparent laundry, showcasing the minimalistic pieces in mixed hues and colours. There were a lot of finely crafted staples in fun, muted tones, like pleated trousers with contrasting neckties, puffer jackets, balloon-like coats, structured hoodies, slouchy sweatpants, and versatile accessories.
