Men’s Fall/Winter fashion week in Milan is always a delight. The Milanese hospitality is always warm, the tortellini in Brodo is hot, and, of course, the fashion is setting the trend. Perhaps it is just our bias, but it does seem that the Italian fashion houses’ offerings tend to align with actual, practical wearability for the consumer. Meaning that the clothes are made to be worn. From the classic tailoring of Zegna and Brunello Cucinelli to the bold luxuriousness of Gucci and Fendi, a lot is going on, and it’s where you want to be to see the upcoming trends. As always, we’ve surveyed the landscape of what was on offer and have narrowed down what we think is the best show for Fall/Winter 2024.
Fendi
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In the Fendi showroom in Milan, the Fall / Winter 2024 runway show was a masterclass on country living, but make it chic. Inspired by Prince Anne and the British outdoors, “a bit of a Balmoral look,” joked designer Silvia Venturini Fendi, the collection featured an abundance of tartans, twin sets, bermudas pleated as kilts, fisherman coats and more. Everything you need for a weekend in the highlands, but with a Fendi twist. While a jaunt to the country for the weekend was the underlining theme, the show’s star came in the form of the textile treatments. A combination of functionally engineered textures with a futuristic edge. Traditional loden came alongside a version made in needle-punched shearling; suede was made to look like velvety corduroy, a cocoon coat made from shredded washed denim and a mohair fringe looking like fur. There were waxed jackets, peacoats with Selleria leather detailing, and greatcoats. A fuchsia leather moto jacket stood out, and a leather bomber ridged with what looked like pleats; it was beautiful. Leather Wellingtons and hiking socks accent all this. The show also featured some new sneakers with colour-coded matching peekaboo bags. The models also carried what looked like pillows but transformed and unfolded into stunning doctor bags.
While the collection was giving outdoorsy, the venue was giving sterile concrete boxes. Designed by artist Nico Vascellari, the stark, grey venue featured brushed steel benches geometrically lauded out to create the brand’s FF monogram. The two juxtaposing ideologies worked perfectly, allowing the starkness of the venue to emphasize the collection’s true feeling.
Gucci
This show was important as it was the first menswear collection of new creative director Sabo and a glimpse into the brand’s new direction after Alessandro Michele’s departure. The’ Ancora’ collection was intended to mirror the previously shown women’s collection that debuted in October last year. Considering that, I would venture to say that the men’s collection pulled it off better in the form of more wearable pieces. The men’s collection was more down to earth (whatever that means when it comes to luxury) than previously bold and sometimes outlandish Alessandro’s Gucci vision, with more desirable pieces. The collection heavily utilized the new GG monogram, which is slightly offset with a drop shadow to create dimension, most notably in the fully monogrammed suits and shoes. While not the most practical, exaggerated ties did an excellent job of adding formal playfulness to some cleaner-suiting options. However, the overall winning looks and pieces were the ones that played with colour: a beautiful cobalt blue trenchcoat, a slime green bomber and a red monogram suit. While these are the standout pieces, the demure subtle looks in black and blue are for sure the pieces from the collection you will see out in the world being worn.
The accessories and shoes are perfection, emphasizing the oversized Jackie bags as the key item de jour.
Take a look at our top selects below.
Brunello Cucinelli
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As is always the case with Italian quiet luxury brand Brunello Cucinelli, the Fall/Winter collection focused on materials and quality craftsmanship. Attempting to capture the allure and elegance of masculine style while incorporating a new and contemporary identity, the collection features structured, precise, and powerful shapes reminiscent of the 1980s’ sartorial world. It features coats with tailored shoulders, elegant trench coats, and traditional outerwear jackets, all designed to enhance the physique. Suits with a dynamic personality go beyond simple formalwear staples to be worn in the office or perhaps just out for a casual dinner. The collection utilizes mid-tones throughout, relying on beige and gray nuances to create a broad and sophisticated palette whose depth is enriched by touches of black, lead and blue. Even the more intense colours are rich in nuances like lobster orange, coral red, sky blue, khaki green and iris purple, which all have a slightly grayish appearance, creating a surprising harmony of colours.
Take a look at our favourite looks from the new collection below.
Giorgio Armani
Considering the man himself is in his 90s, Giorgio Armani is still a master of his craft. For the Fall/Winter 2024, relaxed proportions and soft silhouettes result in an overall tendency towards a more relaxed fit. The collection is a masterclass in understated luxury, with high-quality fabrics and subtle textures exemplifying Armani’s always-on-point balance between contemporary fashion and traditional tailoring.
The runway show started with a short visual of the designer, Armani himself, glaring through the peephole of his front door. This watchful, ever-present eye watched the audience through the show as the models showcased the season’s silhouettes. It’s with no surprise that the collection was titled, “The Look.”
Take a look at our selects from the collection below.
Zegna
This season, Italian brand Zegna is all about cashmere. The Fall/Winter 2024 show “In the Oasi of Cashmere,” lived up to its name, with creative director Alessandro Sartori’s collection utilizing the luxurious fabric both in the clothing and in the runway presentation. While the models walked in monochromatic looks of calming earth tone, cashmere pieces fell into a big mound of orange wool at the runway’s centre.
The cashmere collection featured double-collared blazers, collarless anoraks, blousons, vests and the new “II Conte” jacket. The relaxed fit is predominant amongst all houses this season.
Selects below.
Prada
Prada FW24 is fantastic. Created with the idea of the cubicle in mind, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons showcased their latest collection in Fondazione Prada. Cubicles set in nature, designed to represent the act of going from inside to outside and thus “demonstrating the paradoxical dichotomy between these two coexisting worlds,” resulted in a collection broad in its vision. Featuring colour and a range of shapes. While I know the headwear was intended to be a feature, it often served to distract from the beautiful garments on display. Look at the pictures below or the video above and see what I mean. Regardless, Prada presented a stylish and wearable collection with some serious standout pieces. The boxy overcoats, the sweaters, the relaxed fit trousers, all are chef’s kiss perfection.
JW Anderson
The JW Anderson’s Fall 2024 runway collection was bold and colourful and featured a lot of men in tights. Taking influence from the underlining themes of the landmark 1999 Stanley Kubrick film Eyes Wide Shut, the new collection plays within the realm of the tension and interplay between wealth, conservatism, and erotica. The collection features a ton of oversized silhouettes from sweaters to pants, while juxtaposed with an equal amount of sheer black tights over panties regardless of gender, giving the impression of voyeurism catching one in the in-between moments of getting dressed. There is also a sleek reinterpretation of moccasin boots, some modern-vibing loafers mixed with comically oversized cat sweaters, long tunics and the latest version of the flowing long-sleeved zipper tab. The oversized workwear pants, oversized cardigan, and bold knit sweaters spoke to us for practicality in wear.
See our selections from the collection below.
