Daniel Roseberry just flipped the script on futurism, going full archive for Schiaparelli’s Fall/Winter 2025 Haute Couture collection. Titled Back to the Future, Roseberry ditched the digital noise, colour, and modernity altogether in favour of radical memory. Set entirely in black, white, gold, and red, the collection reimagined Elsa Schiaparelli’s pre-war Paris with a surrealist twist inclduing trompe l’oeil tailoring, sharp silhouettes, and cushy drama.

The collection traded corsets for waist hugging sculptural cuts that hugged the waist and included house codes like the keyhole, anatomical flourishes like ceramic buttons, silk-stitched measuring tape, and hand-embroidered Swiss dots. A new “Elsa” jacket with power shoulders, starburst capes dipped in gunmetal diamanté, pearl-crusted matador coats, and a bias-cut gown with resin Schiaparelli eyes and a waterfall of tulle lashes were stand outs.

Elements of fantasy were at play in details like a 3-d embroidered shell, silk organdie parasol, and a hand painted dress in an iris motif in what Roseberry calls an “Eyes Wide Open” embroidery. Perhaps the most instagrammed moment of the collection was a striking red silk gown with a molded upper body plate on the back complete with a diamond encrusted ruby red beating heart that seemed to breathe in and out.

Roseberry isn’t just referencing the past—he’s rewriting it. No screens, no AI, no filler. Just pure craftsmanship, history, and guts. A reminder that sometimes the future looks better in black and white.

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