At Lanvin, artistic director Peter Copping continues to shape a renewed identity for the historic Parisian house. Presented at the Galerie de la Géologie et de la Minéralogie in the Jardin des Plantes, the Winter 2026 womenswear collection drew from the legacy of founder Jeanne Lanvin while refining a wardrobe grounded in contemporary elegance.
Titled Bonjour Minuit, the collection focused on the interplay between masculine and feminine codes, a fitting direction as the house approaches the centenary of its menswear line. Tailoring anchored the collection, with fabrics typically associated with menswear including wool flannel and grain de poudre reworked into sculpted jackets and coats shaped close to the body through darts, shirring, and subtle architectural construction.
Copping balanced this structure with Lanvin’s historic expertise in the fluid and romantic “flou.” Dresses combined moulded forms with panels of fluid fabric, introducing movement and softness to otherwise rigorous silhouettes. The result was a wardrobe that blurred distinctions between daywear and evening dressing, proposing a modern interpretation of the house’s idea of Parisian chic.
References to the archive appeared with restraint. The robe de style silhouette surfaced in skirts suggesting volume through deconstructed ruffles, while oversized hats echoed the cloche shapes linked to Jeanne Lanvin’s beginnings as a milliner. Art Deco influences, drawn from the designer’s private interiors, informed prints, seamwork, and jewellery.
Craft remained central. Hand embroidered bead droplets appeared alongside laser cut fringe, pairing couture technique with contemporary production. Elsewhere, seams were left visible and garments appeared intentionally unfinished, evoking the immediacy of the atelier and the process of making itself.
Accessories carried the collection’s quiet drama. Cuissarde boots featured exaggerated tongues or buckled treatments in polished leather and crocodile effect finishes, while faux fur stoles and opera length gloves added a cinematic note. Jewellery referenced the flat metal links of vintage wristwatches, reworked into sculptural pieces.
Rather than leaning on nostalgia, Copping approached Lanvin’s heritage with a measured hand. The result was a collection that felt controlled and deliberate, reaffirming the house’s codes while slowly establishing a contemporary language for the brand.
Photos courtesy of Lanvin.