Photo: Reuters
Men’s Fashion Week in Paris, what a joyous time! Nothing brightens January more than hot new fashion trends walking down intricately designed runways of the storied city of lights. As with Milan last week, Paris Fashion Week had some unique firsts! With Saint Laurent’s Anthony Vaccarello bringing the Maison’s menswear show back to Paris (having previously shown in Morocco and Los Angeles), American designer Colm Dillane of KidSuper ‘co-creating’ Louis Vuitton’s menswear collection, and the first showing of British brand Wales Bonner at Paris Fashion Week. Exciting times!
Here’s the best of Paris Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2023, as selected by us.
Isabel Marant
A big hit for us in the fashion meets function way was the latest offer from Isabel Marant. Taking cues from the 90s grunge and rave scenes, the collection brings a joyful and optimistic punch to an otherwise downcast aesthetic. Some winning pieces for us come in straight-leg pants, vibrant quilted jackets, cozy knits, and lovely pieces of denim. A personal favourite for me is the foiled cobalt bomber jacket that just screams 2023. Overall the collection brings a colourful dose of wearable pieces, that will for sure be a mainstay for wardrobes in 2023.
Louis Vuitton
The Louis Vuitton Autumn-Winter 2023 Men’s collection is a dreamy and fun outing from a brand still looking for its next creative director. The collection is dreamy, colourful and fun and really showed off the talents of Louis Vuitton’s in-house Prêt-à-Porter Homme team. Of course, credit goes to Colm Dillane, founder of the brand KidSuper who was asked to be the guest designer for the collection. Our favourite selects from the collection are above, but if you want to delve a bit deeper into the presentation, read our thoughts here.
Dries Van Noten
Hermès
Image courtesy of Hermès
As always, it is such a delicious treat to see what Hermès has to offer each and every season, especially in the menswear department. This season was no exception, with the French house’s menswear designer Véronique Nichanian’s presenting another minimal meets luxurious collection. Featuring intricately crafted, highly desirable pieces, especially the lush leathers and cozy woollens, all of which were layered in a distinguished way. With calfskin overcoats, wide-leg leather trousers, shearling patched flight jackets, zip-up pullovers, chunky boots, and some stunning Haut à Courroies bags in grained Barénia Faubourg calfskin and matte crocodile, the collection was mesmerizing. See our selects above and honestly watch the full presentation below, it is worth it.
Givenchy
Ever since Matthew M. Williams took over as Creative Director for Givenchy, something very special has been happening at the French Maison. For the last two years, every offering the brand has made has been a hit, at least in our opinion, and this menswear show was perhaps one of the best yet. Opening up with a selection of very finely tailored suits, the presentation shifted to a nice assortment of casual and sportswear-vibing pieces. While there has been a noticeable lack of “Streetwear” making an appearance in Paris this season, Williams sent some of the most mature, grown-up casual pieces down the runway we’ve seen, and to great success. Backed by a soundtrack by English musician Bakar, the music when from an almost classical vibe to some heavy bassline breakbeats. It was a great show. Take a look at our selects above.
Saint Laurent
For the first time in recent seasons, French luxury brand Saint Laurent presented their menswear collection at home in Paris. Taking place in the rotunda of the Bourse de Commerce – the art foundation owned by Francois Pinault of Kering — Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent menswear collection was the epitome of the stereotypical Parisian aesthetic. Mostly blacks with some whites, the collection took heavy cues from the Maison’s glamorous heritage, seemingly referencing in its entirety the androgynous woman standing in a Parisian alleyway dressed in a Saint Laurent tuxedo vibe. With lots of gauzy blouses, silk pussy bows, and perpendicular-shouldered suits worn with nothing underneath. It is stylish af. Ultra-slick androgyny seems to be the rallying call for Saint Laurent this season, and tbh, it’s fucking hot.
Watch the full show below.
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Dior
Dior came correct this season, while there was a heavy emphasis on high boots and shorts that seemed somewhat out of place for an autumn/winter collection, the looks landed. But it’s Dior, so obviously. The show was a production indeed, with actor Robert Pattinson and Gwendoline Christie performing one of the most iconic works of Modernist poetry, T.S. Eliot’s classic The Waste Land, on giant screens lining the catwalk while the models walked the runway. It was powerful.
Watch the full presentation below.
Wales Bonner
British designer Grace Wales Bonner is taking her brand to new heights by bringing it to Paris Fashion week instead of London. Staging her first runway show in Paris at the stunning Place Vendôme, Wales Bonner presented a fully comprehensive collection that featured a little something for everyone hitting all the current trends. With menswear pieces like the very popular this season, pleated skirts, fine suiting, and pieces from their upcoming adidas collaboration. Of special note were the pieces featuring pearls and handmade Ghanaian beads, and hand-painted-effect artwork courtesy of Lubaina Himid on shifting silk shirts. Stunning. The move to Paris was totally worth it. Take a look at our selects above.