For Spring/Summer 2027, Noir Kei Ninomiya imagined a “living garden of peaceful resistance.” In Ninomiya’s hands, however, gardens are never particularly delicate. At Salle Wagram, flowers became armour, sculpture and adornment, pushing his signature collision of hard construction and fragile beauty into distinctly romantic territory.
The show opened, as it often does, with a look that immediately demanded attention: a towering, chandelier-like construction surrounding the model’s body, giving the strange sensation of being inside your own personal TeamLab. From there came an extraordinary procession of architectural silhouettes, leather, chains and harnesses, with the clothes constructed into exaggerated cages, ballooned volumes and sculptural forms.
Then came the flowers. Fresh calla lilies, gerbera daisies, dahlias and hydrangeas were held between models’ teeth or woven directly into garments. Floral appliqués travelled across leather dresses, while bouncy curled wigs and softer silhouettes introduced an unexpectedly girly edge. The contrast is quintessentially Ninomiya: something hard made strangely tender, something delicate given physical force.
There was plenty of the designer’s familiar black-and-white language, but SS27 felt more alive than usual. Flowers were not simply decoration. They grew from the clothes, spilling from hems and out the shoulders, in some cases, overwhelming them. Chains and leather harnesses reinforced the tension between protection and adornment, while the exaggerated silhouettes turned the body into something closer to sculpture than clothing at times.
The presentation itself heightened that feeling. Plucky, almost mischievous music composed by Hakushi Hasegawa played against a dramatic lighting installation that slanted down the length of the runway. The result was theatrical without feeling overly solemn, allowing the clothes to retain a sense of movement and play.
Discover the collection below.
