Inside the concrete curves of the Palais de Tokyo, Niccolò Pasqualetti presented a collection that felt like a quiet revelation. The Florence-born designer, known for blurring the boundaries between masculine and feminine tailoring delivered a study in balance where structure meets softness and restraint meets emotion.
For the Spring/Summer 2026 season, silhouettes unfolded with a kind of architectural grace beneath large metal lanterns. Long-line vests and asymmetric skirts moved with ease, with deliberate fluidity. Crisp cottons and whisper-weight silks played off one another, creating tension between opacity and transparency. Nothing felt forced; instead, garments appeared to shift and adapt with the body, revealing their construction only when in motion.
The palette stayed grounded in muted tones. Soft neutrals, earthy tones, structural grey and black, with subtle flashes of metallic detailing and flashes of plum punctuating the calm. Pasqualetti’s precision showed up in tailoring with jackets draped rather than clung and trousers that curved. Accessories added quiet punctuation: sculptural belts, long pendant necklaces, and leather bags that nodded to the designer’s evolving material vocabulary. A coin purse was of particular interest, with a horsehair brush at the base, as was a functional leather shoulder bag, fluid and light with large holes throughout shown in a variety of colours.
There was also the introduction of new textile innovations, part of Pasqualetti’s ongoing exploration of sustainable craftsmanship with his use of circular, low-impact fabrics felt seamlessly integrated into the collection.
The collection’s energy was meditative but assured and as the final look drifted down the runway, Pasqualetti’s world came a little more into focus, defined by intimacy and intent.
Discover the Spring Summer 2026 collection below.
