For Spring/Summer 2027, Glenn Martens continues to push Maison Margiela’s language of deconstruction with a study in hard and soft. Drawing from the traditional Parisian atelier divide between Tailoring and Flou, Martens introduces unexpected structure into otherwise fluid silhouettes, creating new shapes from familiar garments.
Trench coats were reinforced with sculptural panels, tailored jackets folded in on themselves, and draped dresses took on corset-like forms without the restriction. Elsewhere, coat linings become garments, floral dresses are reconstructed, and flattened silverware is moulded into sculptural pieces. Soft netting, second-skin knits and fluid draping provide the counterpoint.
The show’s floral installation by Belgian artist Mark Colle referenced Raf Simons’ celebrated 2012 couture debut, with flowers appearing as though transformed by time. That same floral language runs through the collection in vivid retro leaning prints.
Accessories continue the conversation, from the softened 5AC and structureless new Ghost bags to heel-less boots, new Slide heels and archival Tabi styles; there’s a lot to covet this season for collectors and enthusiasts alike.
And despite the collection being hot on the heels of Martens departure from Diesel, we’re happy Martens is at Maison Margiela to stay for seasons ahead.
Discover the collection below.
