The Louis Vuitton Autumn-Winter 2023 collection debuted at Men’s Fashion Week in Paris yesterday, and from the get-go, it was like entering a dream. After more than a year without a Men’s Creative Director, since the untimely passing of Virgil Abloh, the Maison, continues to push forward relying on the skills and talents of their in-house Prêt-à-Porter Homme team. This season, however, Louis Vuitton enlisted designer Colm Dillane, founder of the brand KidSuper, to be a guest designer for the collection. While the announcement of Colm as the guest designer did come as a bit of a shock to many, it wasn’t the news people had been anticipating, that of a new permanent Men’s Wear Creative Director. This, however, did work, quite well for the brand.
The show began with a surprise performance from Spanish singer Rosalia, who set the tone and the soundtrack for the presentation. Titled “Growing Up,” the presentation started with a highly produced mini-film following the life of an unknown child. Following him from birth to adulthood, the runway for the show was a 360° set built to reflect that film’s rooms and scenes, with a series of “rooms” that the models walked through and interacted with. The start of the runway resembled a hospital room, the next a child’s bedroom, then an adolescent’s bedroom, etc. before circling back and out. While the models walked, Rosalia performed songs, and/or strolled through the set interacting with various objects in various rooms, like writing on the walls or jumping on a bed.
As mentioned the collection was designed by Louis Vuitton’s in-house Prêt-à-Porter Homme team in collaboration with Dillane and was the visual amalgamation of design trends and cues that Abloh favoured, in particular splash of colour. While I believe the impact of Abloh will be felt for years to come, Dillane’s unique touch and flairs were also seen, with flowing suits and bold patterns. A general oversized aesthetic mixed with refined and detailed pieces was seen throughout, with the now standard and much coveted (by me) Louis Vuitton varsity jackets.
See our top selects from the collection above and if you are keen, watch the full presentation below.
CANDY Remix – ROSALÍA (Live Performance)
SAOKO – ROSALÍA (Live Performance)
BULERÍAS DE LA PERLA – Camaron De La Isla
DE AQUÍ NO SALES – ROSALÍA (Live Performance)
DESPECHA (NUSAR3000 Remix) – ROSALÍA
BASBOUSA SONG – Ahmad H Music
DE PLATA – ROSALÍA (Live Performance)
AIO – Angel Dior
CUUUUTE – ROSALÍA (Live Performance)