The Louis Vuitton Autumn-Winter 2023 collection debuted at Men’s Fashion Week in Paris yesterday, and from the get-go, it was like entering a dream. After more than a year without a Men’s Creative Director, since the untimely passing of Virgil Abloh, the Maison, continues to push forward relying on the skills and talents of their in-house Prêt-à-Porter Homme team. This season, however, Louis Vuitton enlisted designer Colm Dillane, founder of the brand KidSuper, to be a guest designer for the collection.  While the announcement of Colm as the guest designer did come as a bit of a shock to many, it wasn’t the news people had been anticipating, that of a new permanent Men’s Wear Creative Director. This, however, did work, quite well for the brand.

The show began with a surprise performance from Spanish singer Rosalia, who set the tone and the soundtrack for the presentation. Titled “Growing Up,” the presentation started with a highly produced mini-film following the life of an unknown child. Following him from birth to adulthood, the runway for the show was a 360° set built to reflect that film’s rooms and scenes, with a series of “rooms” that the models walked through and interacted with. The start of the runway resembled a hospital room, the next a child’s bedroom, then an adolescent’s bedroom, etc. before circling back and out. While the models walked, Rosalia performed songs, and/or strolled through the set interacting with various objects in various rooms, like writing on the walls or jumping on a bed.

As mentioned the collection was designed by Louis Vuitton’s in-house Prêt-à-Porter Homme team in collaboration with Dillane and was the visual amalgamation of design trends and cues that Abloh favoured, in particular splash of colour. While I believe the impact of Abloh will be felt for years to come,  Dillane’s unique touch and flairs were also seen, with flowing suits and bold patterns. A general oversized aesthetic mixed with refined and detailed pieces was seen throughout, with the now standard and much coveted (by me) Louis Vuitton varsity jackets.

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See our top selects from the collection above and if you are keen, watch the full presentation below.

 

CANDY Remix – ROSALÍA (Live Performance)
SAOKO – ROSALÍA (Live Performance)
BULERÍAS DE LA PERLA – Camaron De La Isla
DE AQUÍ NO SALES – ROSALÍA (Live Performance)
DESPECHA (NUSAR3000 Remix) – ROSALÍA
BASBOUSA SONG – Ahmad H Music
DE PLATA – ROSALÍA (Live Performance)
AIO – Angel Dior
CUUUUTE – ROSALÍA (Live Performance)