Junya Watanabe’s Fall/Winter 2026 collection was an exercise in containment, centred on the quiet mastery of mens tailoring and a focused exploration of the overcoat. It was subdued, deliberate, and unmistakably Junya.
Titled “The Best, Dressed,” the show kicked off the day early inside a familiar industrial venue lined with black velvet curtains and Parisian café tables. Models walked slowly to Miles Davis’ My Funny Valentine, some with heads hanging low, others wearing an array of hats—rude boys, artful dodgers, trilbies, and bowlers.
Expanding on Watanabe’s core language, this was a tightly edited offering built around expert tailoring, patchwork, and a consideration of what it means to dress well today. The silhouettes were thoughtful, with the strongest emphasis placed on structured, layered, quietly confident coats that wouldn’t have felt out of place in a Parisian jazz club.
Collaborations were woven in seamlessly. Levi’s appeared through a formal wear project, refining denim, cotton, and satin into sharper tailored pieces, finished with contrast stitching and playful patchwork. Stüssy returned via an American traditional wear project, adding subtle Ivy references and restrained embroidered logoing. Spiewak’s safety jackets and Rebuild by Needles’ military wear project introduced utilitarian elements that felt measured rather than overt.
Outerwear continued to dominate through Mammut down jackets and Rocky Mountain pieces, reinforcing the collection’s focus on practicality and function. Footwear grounded the looks: Tricker’s formal shoes and Heinrich Dinkelacker leather styles leaned classic, while New Balance offered a sportier counterpoint on select outfits.
FW26 felt calm and assured. There was no excess, no unnecessary noise—just well-made clothes, strong coats, and a clear point of view. In a season often driven by spectacle, Junya Watanabe chose control and consistency, reminding us that dressing well is often about refinement rather than reinvention.
Discover the full looks below.
Imagery courtesy of Junya Watanabe.