For Spring 2027, Henry Zankov was inspired by Jeanne Moreau’s 1962 recording of “Le Tourbillon” and memories of his mother arriving in Saint Petersburg in the ’60s. After a smash success with his debut collection for DVF, the New York designer turned Soviet-era nostalgia into a collection for his namesake brand.
Zankov has built his label around exquisite expressive knitwear, bold colour combinations and unexpected texture and for spring his signatures take on a distinctly retro, almost space-age quality.
The collection plays with the tension between the analog and the future, imagining a time capsule from the ’60s, seen through a modern lens. Delicious saturated kiwi green, electric pink, tangerine, chamomile yellow and French blue are set against grounding dirty ivory, tobacco, grey and black, while lurex, oversized paillettes, fringed chiffon, crochet and micro sequins add depth and movement.
Vintage references are reworked rather than simply reproduced. Found 1960s upholstery fabrics become knitted digital jacquards, while silkscreen graphics, stripes and geometric patterns offer a sharper contemporary edge. Bias-cut chiffon, silk charmeuse and organza kept the silhouettes fluid, with draped dresses, kaftans, apron dresses and slashed skirts modulating between nostalgia and modernity.
A playful element comes through the paintings of Philippine de Richemont, translated into lightweight cotton crêpe intarsia knitwear in saturated, retro-inspired shades. Jewelry designer Heath Wagoner pushes the collection further into metalwork with sculptural silver labyrinths, lapis and glass beads, layered chains and found objects.
The season also marks an expansion for ZANKOV with Henry Zankov’s first footwear collection, produced in collaboration with Portuguese footwear manufacturer Luís Onofre through APICCAPS. It rounds out a collection that continues to push the brand beyond knitwear while keeping its distinctive sense of colour, texture and irreverence firmly intact.
Discover the collection below.
