At this year’s Watches & Wonders in Geneva, Hermès leans into a clear theme and follows it through. Skeletonization runs through the lineup, anchored by the H08 Squelette and extended into higher pieces that explore the idea from different angles.
The H08 Squelette leads. Introduced in 2021, the H08 has been moving toward more technical ground, and this version feels like the most resolved yet. After 3 years in development, it opens the collection with a fully skeletonized approach that treats movement as structure. Bridges and screws form a deliberate framework, balancing solid surfaces and negative space to let light move cleanly through the watch.
The 39 mm cushion-shaped case remains in black DLC-treated titanium, paired with a satin-brushed ceramic bezel. The dial omits a date display, keeping the focus on geometry. Inside, the H1978S movement, developed with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, uses black PVD-treated titanium and a semi-square oscillating weight that mirrors the case, delivering a 60-hour power reserve with durability tested for long-term wear.
Beyond the H08, Hermès expands the concept. The Arceau Samarcande shifts into haute horlogerie, with a Saint-Louis crystal dial carved into the shape of a horse’s head, revealing a skeletonized H1927 movement and a minute repeater. The Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune takes a lighter approach, built around ultra-thin construction, a double moon phase display, and a pared-back movement with a micro-rotor.
Together, the lineup feels intentional. The H08 Squelette carries the everyday expression, while the Arceau and Slim push further into technical and artistic territory. Different executions, same idea: Hermès is refining how it approaches structure, light, and form, led by the H08.