Jonathan Anderson’s latest Dior Men’s collection landed in Paris yesterday with a familiar split reaction. Some found it thoughtful and quietly confident, while others walked away unsure what to make of it. For a designer still settling into one of menswear’s most historic houses, that tension feels expected and, honestly, kind of healthy.
For Winter 2026/2027, the collection leaned into history without taking it too seriously. The brand’s framing centers on modern day flâneurs roaming Paris and stumbling across a Paul Poiret plaque near Avenue Montaigne. It sounds theatrical, but on the runway it read more like a starting point for a punk band than a costume. That idea came through immediately in the styling, with some models in blunt yellow wigs and others with blown out hair that looked a bit like they had just been electrocuted.
Anderson isn’t recreating Poiret so much as borrowing his spirit, especially the idea of loosening formality and letting influences collide. That push and pull defined the show. Traditional Dior tailoring sat next to denim, parkas and technical outerwear, sometimes seamlessly and sometimes not. The tailoring was easily the strongest element. Elongated jackets, cropped Bar silhouettes, slim trousers and tightly shrunken blazers felt sharp and intentional.
Outerwear was more divisive. Bombers flowing into brocade capes, balloon back field jackets and cocooning coats pushed the silhouettes toward something stranger. Some of it felt exciting in motion but harder to imagine beyond the runway.
The blurred line between masculine and feminine felt natural rather than forced. Lavallière shirts, waistcoats and long johns worn instead of trousers added softness without feeling too costumey. Styling by Benjamin Bruno helped keep things grounded, even when the ideas leaned eccentric. Fabrics did a lot of the work here, with tweeds, velvets, jacquards and embroidery adding weight to the fun palette.
Anderson isn’t playing it safe. This collection felt like he was thinking out loud, testing the tension Dior Men can hold, which may not have won everyone over, but it made people talk.
Check out the full collection below.
