There was real anticipation in Milan today as Maria Grazia Chiuri made her runway debut as creative director of Fendi, presenting the house’s Autumn Winter 2025 2026 collection during Milan Women’s Fashion Week. The moment carried weight. After departing Dior last March, where she became the first woman to lead the Parisian house, Chiuri returns to the brand where she began her career in 1989 in the accessories department before moving on to Valentino. Decades later, she is back at Fendi in the top creative role. A genuine full circle moment.
Shown on the women’s schedule but conceived as a shared coed presentation, the runway blended womenswear and menswear with intention. Chiuri succeeds Silvia Venturini Fendi, who oversaw the house’s collections following the exit of Kim Jones in October 2024. The message today was clear. This is a holistic vision, with men’s and women’s looks moving in dialogue rather than apart.
For women, a standout paired a crisp white button-down with a tea-length skirt in sheer black lace, a subtle nod to Chiuri’s signature interplay of transparency and structure. Another key look layered sharp tailoring over sheer elements, reinforcing that balance of softness and strength she has long explored.
For men, a deep black tailored suit worn over a soft blue shirt delivered precision and ease, finished with a quiet flash of colour at the sock. The silhouette mirrored the discipline evident across the women’s lineup, underscoring the shared wardrobe concept at the show’s core.
No theatrics, just clarity. Lace and sheer woven through confident Italian tailoring. A coed collection presented during women’s week. Maria Grazia Chiuri is back where it all began, guiding Fendi forward with decades of experience behind her. Milan understood the assignment.
Watch the full runway presentation above.