Last week in Milan, FENDI celebrated its 100th anniversary with an extraordinary collection deeply rooted in generational heritage and legacy, balanced with innovation. The collection marked a turning point for the brand, which is currently without a women’s wear director after Kim Jones’ departure last year. All eyes were on Silvia Venturini Fendi, who took the reins for both men’s and women’s collections this season.
The evening show opened with a tender nod to the familial and generational ties that have shaped Fendi’s legacy. Delfina Delettrez Fendi’s seven-year-old twin sons, Dardo and Tazio, pulled open a set of heavy wooden doors and trotted back to their seats dressed in matching equestrian-inspired outfits, designed by Karl Lagerfeld (once worn by Silvia Venturini Fendi as a child in 1967).
Centering on Roman glamour and Italian elegance, the fall winter collection blended nostalgia and metamorphosis beautifully. A diverse cast of models and iconic figures—including Yasmin Le Bon, Penelope Tree, Karen Elson, Paloma Elsesser, Alex Consani, Adriana Lima, Liya Kebede, Carolyn Murphy, Edie Campbell, Natasha Poly, and Doutzen Kroes—joined new faces, further underscoring the significance of the occasion.
The room was filled with celebrities from around the globe, including Sarah Jessica Parker, one of the house’s loyal and stylish ambassadors, who of course carried a Baguette as part of her look (a nod to her Carrie Bradshaw character). Other notable names in attendance included Elizabeth Olsen, Sean Paul, Bang Chan, Hailee Steinfeld, and international stars like Song Yuqi, Naomi Ackie, and Song Hye Kyo.
Opening with a flared high-collar fur coat worn as a dress, belted at the waist, the collection centered heavily on a rich color palette, including chocolate, scarlet, graphite, mixed with forest green and petrol blue. Relying on sumptuous textures like fur, shearling, eel skin, satin, sturdy boiled wool, marbled plissé taffeta, and leather to provide wow factor, the collection mixed tailored and structured silhouettes with snatched hourglass waists, which softened into more sensual, easy layering—featuring ombre knits, sheer Chantilly lace, with pops of tulle and sequins in the evening looks.
One model wore a striking bubblegum pink tulle gown with crystal and disco sequin embellishments, paired with pink eel leather boots, an embellished Mamma Baguette, and a whimsical FENDI Maxi doll charm, while a buttermilk yellow skirt suit and boiled wool peplum blazers, belted at the waist, felt almost practical.
A terracotta-colored quilted satin set, styled with a gold metal fringe bangle, and a brown and tan chevron eel skin dress, styled with matching knee-high boots and a mini Peekaboo, felt like a funky, glamorous departure for the brand.
Standout pieces for women included a balloon-sleeve panelled leather coat with a drawstring waist, an emerald green eel skin dress, a chevron mink coat with an exaggerated collar, tweed embellished with cascading crystals, and a red graphic polka dot pattern fur coat worn as a dress.
Eel leather was truly a star this season, seen across several ready-to-wear pieces as well as accessories like knee-high boots, bags, and charms. Show-stopping handbags included Peekaboos and Baguettes in all sizes and textures, such as a wool Peekaboo with crystal appliqué, a disco sequin Baguette, a cinnamon-colored shearling Mamma Baguette with an oversized link strap, a buttermilk yellow suede-paneled Mamma Baguette, and the return of the moon-shaped Fendi Giano Bag in two-tone contrasting calfskin.
For men, the collection leaned somewhat traditional in comparison to the women’s looks. Traditional tailoring with modern sophistication included sleek bracelet-sleeve blazers, stovepipe flares, and glamorous deconstructed fur coats. Luxurious oversized trench coats in lambskin and plissé taffeta, shearling stoles layered over jewel-embellished cardigans, and sleek black jackets layered over satin and Chantilly lace made for standout pieces.
Bold footwear included desert boots crafted from wild shearling and lambskin, crystal-embellished satin lace-ups, suede sneakers with wide stitching detail, and long pony hair boots. For bags, the Peekaboo Soft seemed to be the season’s highlight, oversized in thick faux fur, luxe suedes, and leathers, while the Baguette appeared in leopard watersnake and mirrored embroidery. Also featured this season were the Lui Soft Zipped Duffel and Hobo bags made from ultra-luxurious Cuoio Romano leather with signature metal FF logo hardware.
This momentous collection embraced FENDI’s rich history while pushing the boundaries of contemporary fashion forward. Silvia Venturini Fendi proved her mastery of both the men’s and women’s collections this season, marking a deep connection to the FENDI legacy and an unwavering ability to steer the House into the future.
Discover the full collection below.
