Comme des Garçons Homme Plus returned to Men’s Fashion Week with a striking Spring/Summer 2026 collection dissecting the concept of the suit, assembling it into something far more confrontational. Rei Kawakubo’s latest wasn’t just fashion; it was a rejection of uniformity dressed in hyper-structured silhouettes and exaggerated proportions.
The show notes read, Not Suits, But Suits. Opening with a series of bright patterned sculptural looks breaking down classic tailoring tropes and stretching them into abstract forms. Oversized jackets ballooned at the hips, trousers with ruffle patches and zipper splits. As usual garments teetered on the edge of costume— always grounded by Kawakubo’s unmistakable hand.
Layering was key throughout the collection, blazers with double lapells, zipper-split garments revealing secondary textiles underneath, and hats with brims at the front and back. Muted monochromatic tones gave way to bursts of metallics and deep blues, while raw hems and heavy topstitching undercut any sense of polish. Every look felt intentional in its imperfection.
Headwear played a major role in the overall styling, with slouchy caps, sculpted long wigs, and oversized braids adding dramatic exaggeration. These weren’t accessories—they were characters in their own right, suggesting an imagined subculture.
Kawakubo’s manipulation of the male silhouette continues to be one of the most radical voices in contemporary fashion and the SS26 collection asked more questions than it answered: What is professionalism? What does structure protect us from? What happens when we strip it all back?
Check out the SS26 collection below.
