Kicking off the first night of New York Fashion Week at the Agger Fish Building in Brooklyn, Christopher John Rogers made a triumphant return to the calendar after a five-year hiatus. Entitled Exhale, the collection was a love letter to the “customers, partners, and family of squirrels” who have supported the independent brand since its inception.
The palette of his fifteenth collection was vibrant and inspiring, with an unexpected colour combination of acid yellow and deep burgundy for the opening look, embodying a “spirit of defiance and individuality.”
Embodying a knowing confidence, the collection mixed statement occasion wear with wearable suiting and a slew of long coats, many in loud colours and textures with kitschy embellishments of silk grosgrain ribbon and sewn-on stripes. Rogers’s mastery of striking hues was present throughout seen in bold stripes and unexpected colour pairings that exuded a kind of specialness we haven’t seen in a while. Fabrics were crisp without feeling unapproachable: matte cotton piques and twills to rich satins and wool, reflecting Rogers’s commitment to both luxury and practicality. Playful elements like laffy taffy fringes and candy-coloured dresses were a delightful touch of whimsy, well received by guests and critics alike, reaffirming Rogers’s place as a visionary in the fashion world.
Exhale is a celebration of our roots — playful occasionwear imbricated with declarative workwear and daywear – and a continued effort to provide a space for our fantasies to flourish.”