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After Milan comes Paris, and as the fashion parade moves to the eternal city of lights, so too does the extravagance and pomp of the fashion world. With heavy hitters and newsmakers like Pharrell Williams’ first Louis Vuitton presentation and Kim Jones’ 5th anniversary at Dior already expected to make waves, each Maison pulls out the big metaphoric guns for our entertainment. With the big brands taking over epic spaces for their shows, the smaller and upcoming brands take over the unexpected spaces, turning Paris into a fashion wonderland. Let’s look at our top picks for the best of the best of Mens Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2024 in Paris.

 

Louis Vuitton

 

Undoubtedly, Pharrell Williams’s debut as creative director at Louis Vuitton was the most talked about Men’s fashion week show. With all eyes on this particular show, the Maison opted for the biggest runway they could get in the form of Paris’s oldest bridge, the Pont Neuf. With A-list celeb guests like Rihanna, A$AP Rocky, Tyler, the Creator, Beyoncé and more sitting front row and a variable who’s who of models walking the looks, the show featured a performance by the Voices of Fire gospel choir and an already legendary after-party set by Jay-Z.

As for the collection, inspiration was pulled from everywhere, but with a keen focus on the brand’s past. Not just “the past” but LV’s presence on the street, including references to New York’s famous Canal Street, Dapper Dan’s bold bootleg creations, and the Damier check everywhere.  With the Damier check appearing throughout the show in all sizes and colours, the standout pattern came in the form of a cool camouflage look which utilized primary colours in a fun way. In our opinion, the show’s real star was the resurgence of the Speedy Bag made famous by Marc Jacobs, not back in an abundance of colours and sizes.

Take a look at our favourite pieces from the collection below:

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DIOR

 

After Louis Vuitton, Dior was the most talked about show of Mens SS24. With Creative Director Kim Jones celebrating his fifth year at Dior menswear, the city was ready for a show they would never forget. And they got it. Taking place inside the historic École Militaire Paris, inside of a sleek, monochromatic grey box, the minimalist façade. As the show started, the models slowly rose from the aluminum-checkered floor. It was a very cool sight to behold.

The collection was bold and colourful, with lots of summer-loving neons, all the while paying homage to the work of previous creative directors of the house, Yves Saint Laurent, Gianfranco Ferré and Marc Bohan. Taking traditional womenswear staples like tweed, cabochon jewels and cannage and using them liberally for men’s pieces, the collection was masculine in a soft, sophisticated way.  A white shirt with neon cannage under a casual white suit, get outta here! Let’s also take a moment to acknowledge the footwear, the various print CD loafers. Wow! The clothing is stunning, and this collection was a triumph for Jones and his tenure at Dior.

Watch the show above. See some selects below.

Hermès

Hermes, the epitome of quiet luxury before that, was a TikTok trend, took over the Place d’léna in Paris to present their 50+ look Spring/Summer 2024 runway show. Designer Véronique Nichanian constructed a strong purposeful collection to be layered and combined to reflect your place in the day. Loose knits, silk, technical fabrics, cashmere, and semi-transparent cotton intermingling flawlessly for the perfect collection. Read our full Hermès SS24 review here.

 

 

Sacai

Chitose Abe, founder and designer of Japanese brand Sacai presented her SS24 collection featuring all the unique and weirdly spliced looks we’ve come to love from the brand. With everything appearing through a hybridized lens, we got a series of oversized denim jackets melded with double-breasted pinstripe blazers over mini-skirts that looked like baggy suit trousers turned upside down. In our opinion, Hawaiian floral prints made into matching shirt short combinations that work. The big delight, however, came from the label’s ongoing collaboration with Carhartt WIP, which featured classic jackets intertwined to form a series of two-tone pieces or workwear overalls that turn into a skirt. The oversized shirts with huge pockets are also fun and give the workwear vibe a more playful, exaggerated look. While our descriptions are seemingly vague and confusing, we suggest watching the runway show above to get an idea of the mixing and matching with the brand.

LOEWE

 

The Loewe SS24 men’s show occurred in a monochromatic room centred around three fountains created by artist Lynda Benglis and described as a study on perspective, with a focus on how points of view define perceptions and scales and how perceptions and scales draw silhouettes. The collection by designer Jonathan Anderson featured high, cut waistlines, tops and jackets tucked in or cropped, and an abundance of crystals on polo shirts and trousers. But aside from the glittery moments, there were a lot of strong pieces like the houndstooth overcoats, high-waisted denim and some very cool leather tunics. As always, many singular pieces would round out an outfit or wardrobe perfectly.

Take a look at our favourite pieces below:

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KENZO

The Kenzo SS24 collection by Nigo took a lot of queues in the presentation from friend Pharrell Williams’ Louis Vuitton show. Taking over the footbridge that connects the Palais de Tokyo to the Eiffel Tower, the Kenzo runway show was the perfect amount of Parisian camp and Fashion Week pomp. The collection was an ode to City Pop. This cultural movement defined Nigo’s childhood in Japan in the 80s, with a lot of exaggerated suiting that gave 80s cartoon visions of the 40s alongside lots of poppy graphic transfers and all-over logo prints. With a lot of darker blues, warm pinks and, of course, blacks and whites, a large portion of the pieces were takes on Japanese garments. Judo jackets turned into workwear, and karate belts were used to close tailor jackets, large shorts, and a sick varsity jacket. One dramatically oversized hat was giving Master Yupa from anime vibes. We saw seigaha, the ancient wave motifs recreated on indigo denim, and an interpretation of the Kenzo logo by Verdy, the Japanese graphic artist.  This was kind of one of our favourite presentations shown at PFW tbh.
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GIVENCHY

 

One of the more exciting presentations to watch at Mens over the last couple of years has been that of designer Matthew M Williams’ at Givenchy. Something about his perfectly tailored pieces that seamlessly straddle high fashion and streetwear making it one of the only luxury brands that called to the two markets flawlessly. This season, however, it appears that Williams is looking beyond the steezy drip of luxury and went full-on sartorial. Which, tbh, is the mode of the streets. More people are moving towards the idea of integrated luxury in their overall looks, sort of the quiet luxury approach, but for people who still want everyone to know they are wearing luxury.  The collection presented at the Hotel National des Invalides was a sophisticated new direction for Williams at Givenchy, with wide boxy double-breasted jackets, silky pants, sleeveless jumpsuits, and evening suits with no side seams. All of which exuded cool elegance without the stuffiness. The wool greatcoats, front-pleated chino shorts and drop-crotch tailored trousers were our favourites, with special interest paid to the maxi-t-shirts, techy corseted harnesses, and utility belt bags.

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