For Spring/Summer 2026, Acne Studios staged a mood-drenched takeover of the Collège des Bernardins, reimagining the vaulted halls as a smoky, softly-lit cigar salon. Inside, creative director Jonny Johansson delivered a collection that felt less seasonal and more seismic, breaking down binaries, rebuilding femininity with sharp tailoring, raw textures, and a distinctly queer undercurrent.
Suiting was stripped of its gender, with oversized jackets and uniform shirts worn like armour. Slashed denim, patchwork lace, and waxed suede added grit and elegance in equal measure. Brooklyn-based artist Pacifico Silano’s homoerotic collages filled the space, while a soundtrack from beloved Scandinavian pop star Robyn set the vibe and layered the show with emotional depth, that felt pulsing, sentimental, and bold for the brand.
Accessories stood out on the androgynous models. We saw sculptural earrings, giant cowboy boots, oversized distressed leather bags, rubberized jeans, and square-toe loafer wedges.
As the brand approaches its 30th anniversary, Acne Studios isn’t just defining what’s next — it’s rewriting the rules entirely. Gender? Optional. Identity? Fluid. Style? Unapologetically free.
Discover the runway looks below.
