For Spring/Summer 2027, Christopher Esber looks closely at the smallest details of getting dressed and gives them considerably more power. A pocket square, cuff, belt or stud becomes more than a finishing touch, enlarged and displaced until it becomes part of the architecture of the garment itself.
The effect is distinctly Esber: precise but undone, sensual but with a rock-and-roll edge. Tailoring takes on elongated proportions, with sharply constructed jackets erupting with multiple cuffs, while A-line skirts are disrupted by high splits, collapsing drapes and unexpected wrapping. Belts move beyond decoration, extending past the waist to manipulate the shape of the clothes.
Lace takes cues from menswear, with the diamond motif of a pocket square enlarged into dresses and reworked in ceramic-coated lace. Sheer georgette peeks through slashed sheath tops, exposing an almost architectural interior beneath. Elsewhere, lingerie codes become part of the construction, with bra straps, bandeaux and transparent jersey pulled against the body to create graphic lines.
The collection moves between polished and unruly. Anna Studeli’s collage works appear on satin-backed PVC, while metallic turquoise lace floats around the body in cocooning shapes. Leather is shredded and reconstructed, and gowns are shortened dramatically at the front, deliberately throwing familiar proportions off balance.
Presented beneath an oval skylight in an underground Paris theatre, with leopard carpet underfoot, the setting amplified the collection’s tension between glamour, attitude and disruption. Esber’s point was simple but effective: sometimes the smallest detail can change the entire shape of a look.
