Junya Watanabe called his Spring/Summer 2027 collection simply “Funky,” and the mood was unmistakable and downright infectious. Playful, exuberant and full of attitude, the show felt less like a traditional runway and more like a cast of characters coming out to have a good time.
The collection unfolded in two distinct acts. The first came alive with funk, sparkle and exaggerated embellishment: crystal fringe, oversized pearls, chains, studs, metallics and reconstructed leather, and structural trench coats. The mood shifted as a cloud of smoke marked the transition into the second half, with Michael Jackson’s “I Just Can’t Stop Loving You” ushering in a darker, slower, more romantic pace with looks of black tulle, spikes, lace, ruffles and dramatic Edwardian-inspired silhouettes.
The clothes were theatrical, but the presentation kept them feeling surprisingly light. Once again choreographed by Pat Boguslawski, the models moved with confidence and a sense of individuality, each bringing their own personality to the runway rather than simply walking. That spirit extended to the casting, which included a welcome range of bodies, with plus-size and pregnant models among the lineup.
A natural evolution of what Watanabe has been exploring in recent seasons, highly constructed clothes that come alive through movement. But where last season leaned into the art of assemblage, this season feels less serious and far more joyful.
