ICICLE’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection arrives at an interesting moment for the house. Titled “Moments,” the collection presented in Paris today by Design Director Bénédicte Laloux was a study in the rhythms of everyday life, while quietly marking the final collection before Sabato De Sarno’s creative direction begins.
Rather than treating the transition as a dramatic break, Laloux looks inward. “Moments” considers the wardrobe as something lived in and moved through, with each look capturing a different mood, pace and fragment of the day.
The collection builds on ICICLE’s signature restraint, but introduces a more fluid sense of movement. Tailoring is softened through relaxed proportions and unexpected openings, while familiar pieces are subtly transformed. A trench coat becomes a dress, a blouson is rendered in silk taffeta, sleeves are rolled, folded or left loose, and collars turned backwards. Small gestures change the way each garment sits on the body.
Natural fabrics and fine tailoring give the collection its lightness. Airy poplins, silk chiffon and crepe, cotton and wool blends, and textured linens move between structure and softness. Pleats, graphic folds and micro-gathered embroidery add texture without overwhelming the silhouettes, while fringed fabric bags are folded into sculptural, origami-like forms.
The colour palette follows the same rhythm. Black, white, ecru, sand and camel form the foundation, interrupted by flashes of pop pink, soft yellow, sky blue and anise green. Menswear feels fresh in moss green, lilac and vivid red, bringing a softer energy to tailoring alongside stripes and abstract jacquards.
The timing gives the collection an added resonance. Earlier this month, ICICLE announced the appointment of Sabato De Sarno as its new Creative Director, giving him responsibility across womenswear, menswear, accessories and eyewear. His first collection for the house will arrive for Fall/Winter 2027–28 while Laloux, who has been central to ICICLE’s Paris design studio since 2013, will continue as Design Director of the Women’s Show Collection under his creative direction.
That makes “Moments” less a goodbye than a pause between chapters. For Spring/Summer 2027, Laloux leaves the house with a collection that feels deeply aligned with ICICLE’s language: precise but relaxed, understated but never austere, and designed around the idea that clothes should move naturally with the person wearing them.
With De Sarno’s first ICICLE collection still ahead, this is the last glimpse of the house before its next creative era begins.
