For Spring/Summer 2027, Simone Bellotti takes the idea that perfection is fragile and applies it to the disciplined codes of Jil Sander, disrupting the house’s language of precision, restraint and control without abandoning it.
Bellotti’s approach to creating a collection is a kind of therapy, taking things apart to understand what’s worth keeping, then putting the looks back together in a different way. That tension between construction and deconstruction drives the collection. The starting point is the uniform, deeply embedded in Jil Sander’s vocabulary and traditionally associated with order, power and precision. Here, however, the uniform becomes vulnerable.
Tailoring provides the initial structure before gradually beginning to unravel. Lines shift, folds twist around the body and layers contradict one another. Volumes expand while simultaneously tightening. Knitwear crumples, hemlines rise, and pale dresses wrinkle and gather, ballooning into unexpected proportions with an almost sculptural lightness.
Bellotti doesn’t reject Jil Sander’s codes so much as push them until their contradictions become visible.
Colour provides another interruption. Against the house’s familiar muted neutrals, an image of an ancient Japanese landscape is distorted into an abstract, painterly graphic, breaking the visual rhythm. Accessories follow the same unstable logic: elongated pointed shoes sharpen the silhouette, flat lace-ups (did we spy the new Puma collab?) take on softer construction, while geometric bags bend and collapse to reveal unexpected flashes of colour.
The collection settled back into something recognisably Jil Sander, but not quite where it began. The uniform remains with vulnerability and Bellotti suggests that imperfection isn’t a failure of perfection, but what makes it interesting in the first place.
Discover the collection below.
