For Spring/Summer 2027, Maria Grazia Chiuri puts the body at the centre of her vision for FENDI, exploring the space between strength and fragility, masculinity and femininity, concealment and exposure. Rather than constraining the body, Chiuri allows clothing to respond to it, treating garments as a second skin that remains porous to emotion, desire and movement.
The collection begins with undergarments, for both women and men, establishing a lightweight layer that can be concealed or revealed. Lace, embroidery and colour heighten their sensuality, turning what traditionally remains underneath into something deliberately visible. Chiuri’s approach is less about conventional seduction than the freedom to reveal the body on its own terms, with a sense of irony and play.
Legendary Italian performer Raffaella Carrà’s fearless relationship with her body, sexuality and independence provided a fitting symbol for Chiuri’s vision this season. Carrà’s stage costumes and unapologetic approach to desire translate into a collection where there are few boundaries between intimate and public dressing.
Mirrors become another recurring idea. Inspired by Luciano Fabro’s Cubo di specchi, a mirrored structure appears on the runway, multiplying the bodies around it and turning the act of looking into a confrontation with oneself and others. The imagery also recalls Carrà, Adriano Celentano and the dancers of Prisencolinensinainciusol, bringing Italian pop culture directly into the collection’s visual language.
The clothes themselves refuse easy categorisation. Dressing gowns move onto the street. Glossy meets matte, silk meets animal print, lace meets embroidery and intarsia. Velvet sits alongside parchment, while punk collides with bourgeois dressing. Jewel shoes add another layer of ornament, while proportions and silhouettes shift through contrasting lengths, weights and textures.
There is an intentional lack of hierarchy throughout. Men and women share silhouettes and codes, with traditional distinctions in dress becoming increasingly irrelevant. The result is a collection less concerned with defining the body than allowing it to move, interact and express itself freely.
Discover the collection below.
