Maria Grazia Chiuri unveiled her first Couture collection for Fendi with a homecoming in Rome at the beautiful Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea on Thursday. Held outside the official Paris Haute Couture Week calendar, the Fall/Winter 2026-2027 show marked Fendi’s first Couture presentation since Kim Jones’s departure in 2024 bringing the Roman house’s couture collection back to its hometown for a milestone moment in the brand’s history.
Centring around the idea of desire, Chiuri explored couture as a way of dressing the body rather than constraining it. Fluid chiffon gowns with graphic black and white striping, softly draped dresses, kimono inspired tailoring, and sweeping velvet and fur outerwear emphasized movement and ease. Silky tailoring gave way gracefully to soft silhouettes designed to skim the body.
With Fendi’s exceptional craftsmanship at the core, the house’s couture, leather and fur ateliers transformed familiar materials into something unexpectedly light. Almost weightless, fur appeared featherlike beneath a sheer layer of tulle, while leather traced intricate patterns across double faced cashmere coats. Capes bloomed with appliqué flowers, feathers and arabesques, underscoring the intricate artistry behind each look.
Chiuri nodded to Fendi’s history, drawing inspiration from Histoire d’eau, a 1977 short film commissioned by Karl Lagerfeld for his first ready-to-wear collection for the house, connecting themes of sensuality, freedom and playfulness to a defining moment in Fendi’s creative legacy. More than a debut, the collection offered a clear introduction to Chiuri’s vision for Fendi Couture balancing the house’s celebrated craftsmanship with a soft fluid approach to dressing; an evolution that feels respectful of its heritage and confidently her own.
Watch the show below and discover the full collection.
