Fall Winter at Blumarine was a study in glamour as power. David Koma continued to refine his vision of the house today through the figure of the Italian diva, presented as both myth and modern force. The collection balanced severity and softness, ferocity and fragility, framing glamour not just as decoration but as authority.
Drawing from Blumarine’s photographic archive and collaborations with Helmut Newton, Koma filtered the house’s sensual legacy through the cinematic atmosphere of Venice. Baroque opulence met sculptural modernism in voluminous silhouettes that moved with ease dripping with mystique. A dramatic palette of red, black, white, silver, and gold reinforced the operatic mood with textural elements for added intrigue.
The rose emerged as the collection’s central motif, reworked across prints, embroidery, and metalwork. It appeared across taffeta capes and balloon mini dresses, wrapped around vinyl bombers and chiffon dresses, and electrified Chantilly lace in silver. Gold chainmail rose prints and plissé rosettes pushed the symbol toward armor, blurring romance and protection.
Petal ruffles and garlands added delightful movement to crinolines, lace separates, and knitwear, while tailoring was elevated through baroque cameo buttons, sculpted waist jackets, and Harlequin-inspired silhouettes. Goat hair details, from sweeping coats to dramatic boas and corsetry, reinforced the tension between softness and strength in a playful checkered black and white.
Koma’s signature metal hardware carried through accessories and jewelry, expanding cameo buttons into cages, harnesses, and layered necklaces with crosses and crystal bows. Pointed slingback pumps elongated the silhouette with metal toe caps and jewelled detailing.
The collection was a confident evolution where romanticism balances with seduction. In Koma’s hands, the diva emerged not as fantasy, but as a commanding presence rooted firmly in the present.
Discover the full collection below.
