In a season defined by transition, anticipation reached its peak this week in Milan for Meryll Rogge’s debut collection at Marni. One of the most closely watched debuts of the week, the expectation was not about shock or reinvention, but about authorship. It was about confidence and control.
Her first collection did not chase spectacle or attempt to overwrite the past but instead demonstrated a deep understanding of Marni’s early identity and Rogge’s ability to move it forward without dilution. This was a debut rooted in meaning rather than noise, and in many ways, this restraint made the collection feel more assured than louder statements elsewhere this season.
The collection worked through memory rather than archive. Marni’s signatures appeared with intention. Pattern clashes, unexpected proportions, and material contrasts felt familiar yet recalibrated. Bold stitching became a quiet marker of identity rather than decoration. Seams were reversed to expose construction. Embellishment leaned into imperfection, with oversized polka dots reorganized as delicate sequins on cotton and Mother of Pearl paillettes effortlessly floating from a single stitch.
A subtle nod to mountaineering, drawn from the mountains surrounding Milan appeared in heavy gauge knitwear while sportswear elements merged seamlessly with tailoring, reinforcing Marni’s long-standing tension between utility and elegance.
Glossed riveted leather grounded organza and satin. A vibrant contrasting stripe of paint added quirk to side of trousers and bottom hems of skirts and dresses for that signature dose of Marni quirk. Practical silhouettes were refined through polish and proportion, creating pieces that were just the right amount of serious.
Designed for all genders, the collection returned to the fundamentals of dressing every body with a clear pleasure in dressing up, even for everyday life. Elevated shoes, jewelry, and accessories brought a sense of occasion without excess. Fussbett sandals and Trunk bag reappeared as evolved objects rather than nostalgic symbols, that will carry forward Marni’s visual language into new territory.
Rogge’s Marni debut delivers an enduring sense of purpose with intentional thoughtfulness, craft, and conviction rather than volume.
Discover the collection below.
Photos by Filippo Fior courtesy of Marni.