This season Rei Kawakubo’s vision for Comme des Garçons Homme Plus was “Let’s get out of the black hole,” or so said the press notes. The atmosphere was stark and controlled. Models walked with faces obscured by shaggy wigs and sculptural masks created by artist Shin Murayama. The haunting vibe was augmented by the soundtrack, a distorted mix of Michel Polnareff’s Goodbye Marylou and Love Me, Please Love Me, mixed by Ugo Nardini.
At its core, the collection was an interrogation of tailoring. Jackets and coats were twisted, hollowed out, or reshaped to reveal their internal structures. Backs were removed entirely from some, seams exposed, volumes exaggerated. Black dominated, reinforcing the gravitational pull of the theme, with an encore of all white looks closing the show.
Collaborations were precise and purposeful. A pared-back Comme des Garçons Homme Plus x Air Jordan 11 grounded the looks with a familiar silhouette stripped of excess. Comme des Garçons Homme Plus x Kids Love Gaité also appeared through hand-finished leather shoes, carrying a more expressive, almost personal energy that contrasted with the rigidity of the clothes.
This season it wasn’t about wearability in the conventional sense, but about questioning form and function. Like much of Homme Plus, it asked more than it answered. In a season crowded with noise, Kawakubo’s message was clear: confrontation, clarity, and the ongoing push to escape the gravitational pull of the expected.
Discover the full collection looks below.
Images courtesy of Comme des Garçons.