On Saturday afternoon, beneath grey clouds threatening rain, Hermès held court inside the grand Palais d’Iéna to show the men’s fall-winter 2025 collection. Drawing a veritable who’s who of actors, K-pop stars, elite athletes, rappers, journalists, top clients, and friends of the brand, the great hall buzzed with excitement.

While designer musical chairs might have been the topic of conversation outside, inside the focus remained solely on the luxury and practicality for which the house is known.

Since 1988, Véronique Nichanian, artistic director of the Hermès men’s universe, has followed her vision of how men should dress. Her meticulous attention to detail and unmatched ability to blend the brand’s rich heritage with contemporary aesthetics have secured her place at the top each season.

This season’s collection drew inspiration from racetracks, horse racing, and jockeys, with vibrant racing silks serving as the textile muse—a fitting theme given the brand’s equestrian origins. The collection exuded a comforting warmth, both in spirit and texture. Models were cocooned in three-quarter length sterling coats, weighing upwards of 20lbs, plush sheepskin outerwear, and a slew of fantastic knits, all offering a cozy barrier against winter’s chill. Layering took a backseat this season, allowing sleek, sharp knitwear silhouettes to shine, some paired with a zip-front balaclava, sure to become next season’s hottest accessory.

While leather goods are always at the center of the Maison, knitwear emerged as showstoppers this season, with bold chevrons and geometric patterns emblematic of unique jockey silks. A standout turtleneck featured a dynamic patchwork of triangles, rectangles, and squares in a pale yellow, evoking a nostalgic affection for trigonometry.

Long jackets in vibrant blood orange and celadon blue coated canvas glistened as if rain-slicked, while functional trench coats were given a warm upgrade with lively woollen cashmere underlay, finished with the signature Hermès blanket stitch. Luxurious leather trench coats were balanced with a functional buttoned-up parka and quilted bomber jackets, while accessories were given the oversized treatment this season.

A model in a luscious head-to-toe suede look carried a large black Haut à Courroies with a numbered connect-the-dots pattern while the aforementioned geometric knitwear motif continued onto a striking oversized Garden Party.

While rooted in classic tailoring, the collection embraced a touch of irreverence—Nichanian masterfully balanced tradition with innovation, encapsulating Hermès’ ethos with understated confidence. Functionality fused with whimsy, reaffirmed the Maison’s signature refinement still has the power to surprise and delight. Hermès delivered a collection that truly raced ahead in a season defined by nostalgia and geometry.

Browse the collection below.

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Runway Photography: Filippo Fior

Atmosphere Photography: Bruno Staub

Runway Detail Photography: Armando Grillo