Paris Fashion Week: Junya Watanabe Spring Summer 2025

Housed inside a dark abandoned parking lot, this seasons Junya Watanabe show was full of unexpected twists. Set to Donna Summer’s 1977 hit “I Feel Love” covered by Sam Smith, the robotic looking models stomped quickly down the narrow runway in futuristic upcycled looks that harkened back to the early 2000’s in a completely new, glamorous, and forward-thinking way. The elusive Japanese designer is a man of mystery yet a master of shape and proportion and this collection was no exception.

“I feel that abnormal clothing is necessary in our everyday life.”

For the spring-summer season, he masterfully transformed upcycled modern everyday materials like motocross and BMX gear, velcro strips and buckles, reflective patches, backpacks, and soundproofing foam into sculptural cocktail dresses, vests, otherworldly evening dresses, gloves, and statement jackets. Particularly feminine silver looks with reflective foils felt like a reimagining of the all-over bow trend but instead with small nylon straps and technical ribbons. A patchwork hourglass coat included reflective straps, metallic vinyl squares, space-age nylon, and zippers, reinforced with zig-zag stitching for an almost otherworldly look white a balloon-sleeved black raincoat layered and stitched with Innerraum backpacks looked like as though it could transform.

Models were almost mannequin-esque with glossy porcelain skin and shaved eyebrows, each with metallic patchwork caps. The AI presence felt real as each robotic model passed each other by on the runway, exchanging a brief but knowing look.

We’re not sure whether the models were dressed for skydiving, space travel, or the Ex Machina sequel, but we loved every second of the sci-fi fantasy ride.