Last month we had the pleasure of sneaking a peek at Phillip Lim’s spring summer 2013 collection up close in his New York showroom. Inspiration for the spring season stemmed from a literary technique called ‘cut up’ which was popularized by William S Burroughs in the 50’s, and carried on into lyrics by artists like David Bowie in the 70’s, Kurt Cobain in the 90’s, and Thom Yorke in 2000. Lim applied this technique beautifully throughout the collection executed by reinterpreting and mixing fabrics, patterns, and techniques, without becoming heavy or overworked.
We’re told that Lim was listening to a lot of grunge while working on the collection, so it’s no surprise touches of that 90’s feel frequented much of the collection. For instance, the layering of ripped acid wash jean fabric in a jumpsuit is finished off at the leg in a matching sheer silk, while a sheer black tees advertise a New York graphic in floral lettering. Cropped oversized knit lace sweaters are subdued in green, cream, and black, as are relaxed drawstring safari vests, and other basics which weren’t in the runway show.
On the other end of the collection their are delicate floral jumpsuits, mint green graphic slouchy trousers, cozy metallic knits, and silk knit combo cardigan made in a zip up moto-jacket style. Hits of beading layered on black and white backed silk florals motion back to the cut up technique, as do appliqué sheer jackets with woodland themed shapes. Patchwork dresses combine plaid, floral, and spring neutrals folded in a non linear sense, while other dresses apply the same technique through the draping of the garment.
For men, the grunge mix up continued with striped dip dyed jeans paired with luxe basic black and white tees, and leather and cotton bomber coats. The mixing of fabrics and patterns is more subtle and wearable for men, with for example, a printed jacket utilizing both plaid and paisley in one print. The lightness of spring is achieved through linen v-necks with matching white shorts, while accents of light greyed-out teal, khaki, and bronze are feathered throughout.
The accessories play off both the collection and the technique, mixing leathers of all colours, textures, and finishes, with mesh, painted cotton, eel skin, and metallic touches in everything from shoes to bags to iPad cases. Particular stand outs in the shoe department were a pair of pointed gladiator boots woven in a uniform huarache style with mixed printed leather in teal, cream, black, and patterned straps. The popular Pashli bags have been giving a lift in vibrant yellow and coral with black hardware in all sizes, which are also shown in classic black and a stunning reptile textured white.
The mood at 3.1 Phillip Lim, is as always of the street, but somehow this collection has a more youthful, edgy, and daring vibe than the last couple, and we can’t wait to take these looks to the street come winters thaw next year.
Take a look at our collection of photos from our showroom visit below.